The Epic Fail of Tree-Topping

Topping is perhaps the most harmful tree pruning practice known. Yet, despite that its harmful effects have been known for many years, topping remains a common practice in San Francisco and elsewhere.People top trees for many reasons, all of them connected to falsehoods and misconceptions.

Myth:Topping a tree reduces storm damage and making the tree easier to maintain.

Truth: Topped trees can regain their original height in as fast as 2 years. The fast growing, extremely long and loosely attached shoots caused by topping may be more susceptible to breakage and storm damage. A topped tree requires more attention than a properly pruned tree.

Myth:Topping invigorates a tree.

Truth: Topping immediately injures a tree. Topping wounds expose a tree to decay and invasion from insects and disease. Also, the loss of foliage starves the tree, weakening the roots and reducing the tree's structural strength. While a tree may survive topping, its life span will be significantly reduced.

Myth:Topped trees will add value to your property.

Truth: Topped trees lack natural beauty and may reduce your property values. Also, a topped tree can become hazardous and cause property damage, making it a liability.

As more is learned about the long-term effects of tree topping, the more senseless this practice becomes. Topping is the absolute worst thing you can do for the health of your tree.

What is Tree-Topping?

Tree-toppingisthe a practice ofexcessivelyandarbitrarilyremovingofallpartsofthetreeaboveandbeyondacertainheightwithout any concern for the tree’s structure or growth patternTheverticalstemormainleaderandtheupperprimarylimbsontreesarecutbacktounsightly  stubsat auniformheight.Pruning, also known as tree thinning, istheselectiveremovalofcertainlimbsbasedonthestructure, thecrownformand growth of thetree. The process is the same for artistic pruning.

Problems caused by tree-topping

The balance between the roots and crown is altered. 

Removal of too many branches and leaves reduces the food-making potential of the tree (photosynthesis) and depletes the tree’s stored reserves needed for maintenance and growth. An arbitrary and excessive removal of crown will cause similar root reduction because there is not enough leaf area or food-making capacity to sustain the amount of roots present and a proliferation of sprout growth at the wounded or cut area in an attempt to gain more leaf area to balance the amount of roots.

Both results are undesirable for the long-term health and maintenance of the tree. Root death occurs because less food is being made in the leaves area and stored in the roots. An entire tree with fewer anchoring roots is more likely to blow over during a storm.Root weakening and decay result from the loss of food resources once produced in the part of the crown that was removed. Disease and insect attack follows resprouting, sunscald and food production loss as a tree’s physiological system is altered and disease resistance lowered. 

New sprout growth is weak. 

The new water sprout shoots, resulting from tree topping, are attached to the surface of the stubs, rather than anchored from within the former limbs.The resprouting process is quick. Topped trees regain their original height within 2 to 4 years. Many trees wind up taller than if they had not been topped.The accompanying resprouts are weak. A topped tree’s new limbs, because of their rapid growth rate and lack of strong attachment to the tree, will break easier as the resprouts are weakly attached. As the branch gains weight the weak attachment becomes more vulnerable to breaking. Topped trees often have breakage at the new limbs. Resprouting is very dense, especially in the first years after topping, making the tree less resistant to wind that it had been normally. 

Topping can create a hazard. 

New shoots from the branch stubs are inherently weak and highly susceptible to breakage from wind and ice storms or weight from excessive growth. Liability concerns increase for both property owner and the company that topped the tree as bodily harm or damage property can be the result of tree topping. Loss of side limbs drastically reduces the “cushion” that normal trees have when they fall, dramatically increasing the chance of property damage. Dieback from entire limbs dying creates a hazardous storm situation. 

Large stubs will not heal. 

Trees compartmentalize wounds, some species more poorly than others. Large branch wounds (those greater than 2 inches in diameter) areslowtoheal,iftheyhealatall. This slow healingincreasesthechanceof insect attacks and fungal decay entering the wound and spreading throughout thetree. Decay starts when a tree is topped.

Sunscald can occur. 

Sunscald, the effect of prolonged bright sun heating a tree’s trunk after it has been topped, kills tissue just below the bark directly. When freezing temperatures follow, the portion of that trunk can die. Bark tissues suddenly exposed to full sun may be burned, damaged, killed or develop disease cankers. Trees with thin bark such as maples, flowering cherries and crabapples are especially susceptible to sunscald.

Topping mutilates trees. 

The natural form and structure of the crown is altered. Unsightly branch stubs, large pruning scars and undesirable, vigorous branch growth (watersprouts) change the tree’s natural beauty and form. Topping drastically shortens the life of a tree. Topped trees are an eyesore in the landscape and will continue to be an eyesore as trees slowly decline.

Topping is a temporary solution. 

A topped tree will grow back to its original height, but its lovely, natural form is lost.Weakbrancheswillpromoteadditionalmaintenancecosts.

Topping Alternatives

Be sure to select the right tree and plant it in the right place on your property. If the tree is too large for the area where it is planted, remove the tree and replace it with a species that is a smaller size. There are many guidelines on selecting a tree of the correct size. Avoid sites where there are obstructions both above and below ground, including utility lines.

Prune the tree properly and as needed. Correct pruning procedures remove branches and thin the crown to reduce wind resistance and improve tree health without leaving branch stubs or changing the natural shape and balance of the tree. 

Summary

The experts agree – DON’T TOP YOUR TREE!

The practice of topping is not recommended and should be avoided at all costs. This destructive practice can lead to decay, storm damage and unsightly disfigurement of trees.

Thinning the crown of a tree with cuts made at branch collars is the proper pruning method for the long-term health of trees. Professional organizations including the International Society of Arboriculture (ISA), the National Arborist Association (NAA) and the Tree Care Industry Association (TCIA), consider the practice of tree topping as unacceptable.

Tree-topping is so widespread that many homeowners believe that the practice is the proper way to prune a tree. Unfortunately many tree service companiesstill top trees and homeowners allow them to continue. Be sure to investigate any tree care servicebefore hiring and inquire if the company engages in tree-topping. If a company advocates tree topping,look elsewhere right away! Though membership is a professional tree care organization does not guarantee quality, if a tree company maintains a membership in an organization such as TCIA or ISA, it indicates a commitment to the tree care profession and proper tree care practices. 

Arborist Nowis a member of both TCIA and ISA and we are committed to providing professional tree care services, including pruning and tree removal in San Francisco, Hillsborough, Alameda and surrounding areas. Contact us today!

Contact us today for our expert professional tree services & Tree recycling Hillsborough .

Website: https://www.arboristnow.com/

Phone:  1-415-310-7781

Email:  contact@arboristnow.com

Address:  2025 Newcomb Ave., Unit C-3

San Francisco, CA 94124

 

How to Care for Fruit Trees in the Summer

Summer is here and fruit trees in your yard probably haveabundant new growth andthe fruits are sizing up nicely. At this time of year, it is imperative that you keep up with fruit tree care in San Francisco, Hillsborough and Alameda, so you can avoid insect infestation, disease, and weather-related problems. Here are some things to remember when caring for your fruit trees this summer.

Inspect Frequently

Examine your fruit tree bark, branches, leaves, and developing fruits often. Look for signs of insects and diseases and apply the suitable organic controls. It is usually easier to control pests if you act before or just as they are getting established, than to control them after they have caused lots of damage.

Water Often

Fruit trees need water to develop their fruit properly. It is best to water deeply and infrequently rather than frequent andshallow watering. Water trees on sandy soils every 1 to 2 weeks providing enough water so it sinks 2 feet into the soil. On clay soils, water every 2 to 3 weeks. The frequency will vary depending on weather conditions. You can water less during rainy periods and more during droughts. For young trees, make a moat around the base of the tree so the water stays in the root zone and on older trees, water at the drip line of the tree.

Control Weeds with Mulch

It is important to keep the base of your fruit trees weed free. Spread a 2 to 3-inch thick layer of organic mulch, such as pine straw or bark mulch, over the root zone but keep it a few inches away from the trunk. The mulch creates a no-mow ring around the tree trunk so it is less likely to damage the tree with a lawn mower or string trimmer. On younger trees, mulch reduces weed competition and keeps the soil moist longer, reducing the need to water. As organic mulch also breaks down gradually, the mulch provides organic matter to the soil.

Fertilize Trees, if Necessary 

This takes some thought. How much to fertilize your fruit tree depends on how well the tree is growing. Adding compost around the base of young fruit trees (but a few inches away from the trunk) and at the drip line of older trees, is always a good practice. Base any other fertilizing on a soil test and the growth of your tree. For example, for non-bearing apple trees, yearly shoot growth should be between 24 to 36 inches; for pears, 12 to 26 inches; and for peaches, 16 to 24 inches. In fruit-producing apple trees, shoot growth should be between 12 to 24 inches; for pears, 6 to 12 inches; and for peaches, 10 to 18 inches. The soil pH for most fruit trees should be around 6.5 to 7.0. It is best to apply fertilizer early in the summer season. Do not fertilize in late summer or you'll stimulate new growth which may be winter injured and tree hardening off will be delayed for winter.

Fruit Thinning

Most fruit trees produce more fruit than the tree can support. While the tree will naturally shed some fruit during an early summer drop, you may need to thin more than nature does. Thinning fruits eliminates diseased or insect infested fruits, reduces fruit load, prevents branches from breaking during the summer from the heavy weight of the excessive fruits, and prevents alternate year bearing which is common on some fruit trees varieties. Wait until after the natural drop to thin your fruits. The fruits should be about 1-inch in diameter when you're thinning them. Leave the largest, healthiest looking fruit on the tree, and favor fruits located towards the outside and upper portions of the tree. These will receive the most sun and produce the best quality fruits. With a light bearing year, thin less. Thin more during heavy fruit set years.

Here are some spacing guidelines for thinning fruits on common tree fruits.

• Apricots, Cherries, and Plums – thin to 2 to 4 inches apart
• Peaches and Nectarines –thin to 3 to 5 inches apart
• Apples and Pears – thin to one or two fruits per cluster, spaced 6 to 8 inches apart

Spread Branches

On young fruit trees, encourage strong branch or crotch angles by spreading the branches. Branches spread to a 45 degree angle or greater with the trunk will be stronger and produce less vegetative growth and more fruit. You can use wooden spreaders placed between narrow-angled branches to slowly force them apart, or take fishing line with weights attached and tie them to ends of smaller branches needing to grow more horizontally. After one year the branches will be naturally be growing at the right angle and the spreaders can be removed.

Pruning

There are several approaches to summer-pruning fruit trees, and all are dedicated to detecting what needs correcting. Here are some recommendations:

·         Despite being considered “off-season pruning,” summer pruning of fruit trees in a home orchard has its place. For example, summer pruning may be necessary to repair damaged tree limbs. If a branch is broken by the wind or by a heavy load of fruit, then prune back the ragged edges, making a smooth cut that leaves no stubby stump.

·         Summer pruning, or pinching, of tender new branches is also recommended to encourage huskier growth in vigorously vegetative trees. This discourages long, weak, “leggy” growth from flourishing. Summer pinching helps manage the tree’s overall size as well, which is especially handy if your dwarf fruit trees tend to be more on the robust side.

·         There are many reasons to consider summer pruning of fruit trees, but the ultimate purpose remains the same: detecting what needs correcting.

When to consider summer pruning:

Pruning should be done in July and early August. This is the active growing season as growth slows down in fall. This also helpsin situations where a harsh winter and spring may delay new growth.

The following fruit trees are commonly considered for summer pruning. These trees tend to grow vigorously. They may reach their maximum height sooner than other fruit trees, but at the expense of sturdy, stocky limbs. They may also develop light and airflow issues that pruning addresses.

·         Peach trees

·         Nectarine trees

·         Japanese plum trees

Goals of summer pruning:

·         Removal of dead, damaged, diseased limbs before they become stress factors for your tree. Be sure to remove crossing/rubbing limbs, and limbs that grow inward toward the tree’s center.

·         Creating a sturdy structure. As noted previously, long, weak growth should be pinched back. Hand pinch, or prune, approximately 3 inches off the end of each soft, leafy shoot. Repeat in late summer if side shoots grow rapidly out.

Benefits to summer pruning of fruit trees:

·         Enhances light exposure. In young fruit trees, light improves the development of fruiting wood. In mature fruit-bearing trees, light improves fruit size/quality. In fruit trees of all ages, proper light and air circulation reduce the risk of fungal disease.

·         Encourages sturdier branch development. With pruning, your tree will have stockier, sturdier growth providing better support fruit in future seasons.

·         Provides opportunity to check on tree status to address pests/disease issues, ideally before they are bigger problems. Tree limbs are spread if they are growing too vertically and the removal any suckers and watersprouts that may have appeared.

Things to avoid when summer pruning:

·         Avoid pruning if rain is in the immediate forecast. Rain can aggravate disease elements, like fungal spores, that may take advantage of fresh pruning cuts. Wait for the weather to be more cooperative.

·         Avoid heavy pruning in summer. Summer pruning should merely maintain the structure which you define with heavier pruning in winter/early spring. Heavy pruning should always be saved for when fruit trees are dormant and less prone to stress.

·        Avoid pruning too late. It may seem backward, but pruning actually encourages growth. If this growth is encouraged too late in the season, it could be at risk of winter injury. If you miss your “summer pruning window”, just wait to prune in the winter/early spring instead.

Please note, do not wait to remove damaged, dead, or diseased limbs, or suckers and watersprouts. These should be removed as soon as possible.

With these things in mind, and pruners in hand, you are ready for summer pruning of your prized fruit trees. Arborist Now is here to help when summer fun takes precedence over summer tree care chores in San Francisco and surrounding areas. Just give us a call!

Contact us today for our expert professional tree services & Tree recycling Hillsborough .

Website: https://www.arboristnow.com/

Phone:  1-415-310-7781

Email:  contact@arboristnow.com

Address:  2025 Newcomb Ave., Unit C-3

San Francisco, CA 94124

The Liberty Tree – A Forgotten Symbol of the American Revolution

As summer is here and everyone is gathering to celebrate America’s 241^st Birthday, Arborist Now is taking this time to publish a short article about The Liberty Tree and the role it played as the colonists resisted the rule of King George III. We hope you enjoy this glimpse into our great American history.

In 1765 the British government imposed a Stamp Act on the American colonies. It required all legal documents, permits, commercial contracts, newspapers, pamphlets, and playing cards in the American colonies to carry a tax stamp. Because the Act applied to papers, newspapers, advertisements, and other publications and legal documents, it was viewed by the colonists as a means of censorship, or a "knowledge tax," on the rights of the colonists to write and read freely.

On 14 August 1765, a crowd gathered in Boston under a large elm tree at the corner of Essex Street and Washington Street, originally called Orange Street, to protest the hated Stamp Act. Patriots who later called themselves the Sons of Liberty had hung in effigy Andrew Oliver, the colonist chosen by King George III to impose the Stamp Act. The effigy was hung on the tree, where nearby a British cavalry jackboot, also hung in its branches. Grinning from inside the boot was a devil-like doll holding a scroll marked “Stamp Act.” It was the first public show of defiance against the Crown and spawned the resistance that led to the American Revolutionary War 10 years later. On 10 Sept., a sign saying "Tree of Liberty" was nailed to the trunk of the tree.

In the years leading up to the war, the British made the Liberty Tree an object of ridicule. British soldiers tarred and feathered a man named Thomas Ditson, and forced him to march in front of the tree. During the siege of Boston, a party of Loyalists led by Job Williams defiantly cut the tree down in an act of spite, knowing what it represented to the patriots, and used the tree for firewood. This act only further enraged the patriots. As resistance to the British grew, flags bearing a representation of the Liberty Tree were flown to symbolize the unwavering spirit of liberty. These flags were later a common sight during the battles of the American Revolution.

For many years the remnant of the tree was used as a reference point by local citizens, similar to the Boston Stone, and became known as the "Liberty Stump." Later the citizens in many of the colonies erected a Liberty pole in commemoration of the Liberty Tree.

Other towns designated their own Liberty Trees as well. The Liberty Tree in Acton, Massachusetts, was an elm tree that lasted until about 1925. In 1915, knowing that the Liberty Tree was getting older, Acton students planted the Peace Tree, a Norway maple that still stands today.

Liberty Trees that were designated in the other Thirteen Original Colonies were eventually lost over time as well. A 400-year-old tulip poplar stood on the grounds of St. John's College in Annapolis, Maryland until 1999, when it was felled after Hurricane Floyd caused irreparable damage to it. The wood from this tree was acquired and progressively used by Taylor Guitars to produce limited-edition musical instruments: 400 of their Grand Concert guitars; 400 of their Baby Taylor guitars; and 50 of their T5 guitars (each named for one of the fifty states, sequenced in the order in which that state joined the Union).Randolph, New Jersey claims a white oak Liberty Tree dating to 1720.

Besides actual trees, the term "Tree of Liberty" is associated with Thomas Jefferson's quotation, "The tree of liberty must be refreshed from time to time with the blood of patriots and tyrants."

As the summer progresses, remember – Arborist Now offers full service tree care for residential and commercial properties in the San Francisco and surrounding areas. Contact us today for our expert professionaltree services & Tree recycling Hillsborough .

Website: https://www.arboristnow.com/

Phone:  1-415-310-7781

Email:  contact@arboristnow.com

Address:  2025 Newcomb Ave., Unit C-3

San Francisco, CA 94124